Wednesday, July 2, 2014

FARMERS' CLUB DISCUSSES TREE AND FRUIT CULTURE



The Cortland News, Friday, February 15, 1884.
Farmers’ Club.
   An unusually interesting, instructive and well-attended meeting of the Club was held in the Academy at Homer on Saturday, Feb. 9. The meeting was presided over by vice-president Tillinghast. Secretary Bean read a communication from Mr. Root, who wished to make a correction in the report of his speech, in regard to sprinkling the apple trees in the spring with Paris green [copper acetoarsenite]. It should have read, 1 tablespoonful of Paris green to 1 hogshead of water.
   The topic, "Tree and Fruit Culture," was then taken up by Prof. E. J. Peck, who said that he thought the calling of everything an address a figure of speech, simply a testimonial of honor and respect, and he considered his effort rather as a talk, in which ideas were to be brought out by the asking of questions. He would be better qualified to talk to farmers on this subject if he knew as much about it as he loved it.
   He spoke first of the importance of tree culture. In olden times they had an inhabitant to every tree and to every fountain a nymph, and when he sees the springs drying and the forests disappearing, he cannot help thinking but that the ancients were much nearer nature than we. We should think of trees as living beings, not as mere things, and considering a beautiful damsel to be the inhabitant of every spring is not far from the truth.
   Those bare ledges which we see upon every side, whose bareness blinds us in the glare of the sun's hot rays, and at the same time spoil the natural beauties of the landscape, could be made to support a luxuriant growth of trees. Many can well remember when our own stream [Tioughnioga River] was navigable, but now it at times becomes a contemptible brook, and when its banks are filled, it is with a rushing, mad torrent, which carries off the rainfall and hurries it to the sea, when it should remain in the soil and keep the roots and atmosphere moist during our heated periods.
   The waterfall is now as great, and perhaps greater than then, but there are no trees to retain the moisture and let it out gradually so that it may beautify everything. The wasting of forests can be stopped it we make for ourselves this law and live up to it: "I will plant as many trees as I destroy.'' It is all right to cut down old trees, but they should have successors, and he believed that at the end of his life he would leave more trees of his own planting than he had destroyed or used.
   Fruit trees should be grown for the food and shade trees for the shade they give. As agents of health, pleasure and happiness they stand paramount to everything else. In speaking of the profit arising from this branch, he said that any of our better sort of trees will produce as good returns, say for twenty-five years, as any of our farming crops. He knew one that since 1840 had produced from a chestnut grove three growths of chestnut trees, and the fourth is about ready for cutting. If they are cut down in the winter and the stock is kept away, the stumps will produce a new growth, each one sending up at least six new shoots. As for the value of this wood, we all know of its utility for posts and in finishing houses. The above treatment will not injure the tree’s life in the winter when it is dormant, which is true of many varieties, maple, perhaps, excepted. In ten or fifteen years each tree will yield ten or fifteen posts. It, together with black walnut, will grow on a sandy loam.
   The best way to raise a shade tree for ornament is to plant as near from the seed as possible. On account of the tap roots, it is quite difficult to transplant the chestnut and black walnut after attaining a large growth, and almost impossible to transplant a hickory, but the two former, sometimes even the latter, at four or five years' growth, can be moved just as well as the apple. The nuts should be kept fresh, in a moist place and where they will freeze in the winter, just below each one in the ground placing something hard, such as a tin pan, against which the tap root strikes, stops growing downward, but sends out little roots from its sides, which are just what are wanted. It will neither kill nor injure the plant, for nature, in her effort to live, sends the roots from the sides, thus giving the large number of roots that are desirable in transplanting.
   At ten years, black walnut, having grown rapidly, become bearing trees. They can be raised here, especially on a gravelly ground, and he had seen them in Ontario county growing spontaneously in a clay loam soil.
   As evidence that this timber can be raised here, instances were given of finely growing trees in this county. A grove of three hundred upon an acre of ground will in twenty years average one foot in diameter to each tree, so it is readily seen that land now practically worthless can in this industry be made valuable, for at the end of ten years the land will be worth $100 more an acre.
   It is less labor to grow trees directly from the seed than to transplant. A seed-grown tree will in twenty years overtake one transplanted, and make a better tree. Young chestnut trees should be set about eight feet apart, or twice as thick as they are finally to stand. By thus planting, the trees will trim themselves and grow a long body, which is what is wanted, and most varieties should be planted with this end in view.
   The yellow and honey locust are distinct varieties, the former being a tree valuable for posts; the latter for a hedge, and it makes an excellent one. You must not be afraid to trim this hedge on account of hurting it, for it cannot be easily done, and the time will come when you will wish you had trimmed it more. Trimming 50 rods a day, with labor at $1.50, it will cost 3 cents a rod yearly to trim a hedge.
   In planting or setting out trees, fruits, etc., don't be afraid to get down on your knees and do not set the plant in a hollow, but at the top of a mound, and press around the plant with your hands enough to make the ground hard and firm. No stake should be necessary, for if the plant is set as it should be it will be its own stake. The top should…[missing a line of newsprint--CC editor] enough young buds by cutting with a spade into the ground on the side to which it leans and pressing the dirt in. Locust seeds have a hard shell and so the hot water treatment, by soaking this, helps the germ in starting.
   Prune trees when they are small and don't prune simply because you think some limbs should come off, but ask yourself, why? Do your own pruning, and do not cut off any limb larger than a fork handle or rake's tail. It is far better to leave the large lower limbs and cut the smaller ones from them. If it is desired to grow a tree high, trim gradually the lower limbs; if to grow a low, spreading tree, trim from the top.
   Illustrating the right and wrong in transplanting trees, the Professor mentioned an instance in which the trustees of the Congregational church purchased several young elm trees to set out around the church building, and he asked and obtained permission of the man doing the work to set one of them himself. He went at it upon his knees and the now fine, thrifty looking tree standing near the south-east corner of the Academy building bears testimony to his skill and knowledge of transplanting, and the two in front of the church look stunted in comparison. Never twist roots out of shape in order to get them into a certain sized hole, for it would be far better to cut them off entirely.
   In speaking of the cultivation of the grape, Professor Peck said that he believed the earlier varieties could, if properly taken care of, be raised in this county. A two year-old plant is the best for setting out, for it is more apt to have plenty of fibrous roots. Set them about two inches from the surface, at the top of a mound, and pack the earth firmly with the hand. The first year the plant should be cut back to one bud. The next spring before the sap starts, cut the plant back to within ten inches of the ground and fasten it to an upright stake, allowing only two buds to grow. If it is a strong plant, the two shoots sent out by these buds will make the two horizontal arms of the grape-bearing vines.
   The next spring, before the sap starts, bend them over and fasten the ends into the ground, for the grape vine is a great pusher, and unless this is done the end buds will start first. Then extend them in a horizontal position and fasten to a trellis, rubbing off the buds on the lower side of the arms, thus allowing only the upper ones to grow, which will then be from eight to ten inches apart. The arms should then be cut back to within four feet of the upright stem, by which process three or four upright buds will be left on each arm. The vines growing from these should be fastened to the trellis, and the next spring these should be cut back, leaving only two buds on each. If the plant is strong, one bunch of grapes may now be allowed to grow on each vertical vine.
   Pruning should be done in the summer when the lateral buds start at the bases of the leaves. This bud should be pinched off with the thumb and forefinger when its first leaf is about the size of a quarter of a dollar. It will have to be done four or five times during the summer, and don't be afraid to do it thoroughly, for it will not injure the plant, but will add greatly to the size and early maturity of the grapes.
   In renovating an old grape vine, it is best to cut it back root and branch to the two horizontal arms, and then give it the same course of treatment that was given the other in the third year. Keep the suckers from the roots. Set the plants at least ten feet apart, for they send forth tremendous roots and are great feelers.
   Speaking of fertilizing, he said that as to whether or not this could be done depended upon the variety. If it is a slow-grower, it will bear feeding; if a rapid-grower, fertilizing will send the nutriment into the stems and branches instead of into the grapes. The soil in this section is good enough to grow the Delaware grape without feeding, and, in fact, there is more danger in this soil of feeding too heavily than not feeding at all. Grass should be kept away from the vines. On account of getting the sun's rays more uniformly upon the vines and grapes, the horizontal arms should be grown north and south.
   Mr. Ballard said that the Brighton is the best grape grown, as it is hardy and its bunches are of a uniform size. In raising grapes it is no drawback if a man has poor ground, and there should be as much lime worked into the soil as possible.
   A vote of thanks was carried Prof. Peck for his kind invitation and for the very intelligent, earnest and practical address he had given those present.
   At the next meeting, which will be held in Cortland, Saturday afternoon, Feb. 23, the above subject will be continued, but the regular subject will be "Sugar-Making."

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